Late classical serape, Navajo, Nineteenth Century. Courtesy of
The Textile Museum, gift of General Mike Sheridan.
The blankets in the exhibition represent some of the most
notable and dynamic styles developed by the Navajo -- chief's-style
blankets and women's-style blankets, a poncho, smaller serapes and
wedge weave blankets.
The earliest known Navajo weavings share many traits with
weavings of the neighboring Pueblo Indians, including specific
techniques and early blanket styles. In contrast, Navajo weavings
of the later documented periods are distinctly Navajo. Nineteenth
Century weavings can be divided into several divergent periods:
Classic (1800-1865), Late Classic (1865-1880) and Transitional
(1880-1895). These were followed by Rug (1895-1950) and Modern
(1950-present). "Navajo Blankets of the Nineteenth Century"
includes select examples from the first three periods.
Six Classic and Late Classic chief's-style blankets,
characterized by wide horizontal bands often overlaid with bold
geometric motifs, are featured in the exhibit. The name "chief
blanket" is, however, a misnomer, as local family heads rather
than chiefs governed the Navajos. Such blankets were valued as
trade goods among the Plains Indians to the north and east and
were often worn by high status men and women from Plains tribes.
Over the course of the Nineteenth Century, the chief's style
evolved through several phases, from basic stripes to elaborate
layers of geometric motifs. The exhibition includes a rare first
phase chief's-style blanket along with later second and third
versions, and two second phase women's-style blankets.
Contacts with Spaniards, Mexicans and Anglo-Americans introduced
new materials, motifs and markets to Navajo weavers.
The Late Classic period of Navajo weaving was an intense time of
cultural change for the Navajo people. Perhaps the most
cataclysmic event of this period was Kit Carson's 1863 forced
removal of the Navajo people to Bosque Redondo (Fort Sumner,
N.M.), where they were interned until 1868. Starting with the
captivity at Bosque Redondo and continuing to 1879, the US
government supplied the Navajos with goods, including yarn,
fabric, blankets and weaving tools. This exposure to new
materials, and also to stimuli such as Spanish American and
Mexican patterned blankets, influenced Navajo design and led to
textiles of the Transitional period.
During this time, production shifted from traditional blankets to
smaller textiles and rugs with brilliant colors and designs
largely intended for the trade market. Six Late Classic serapes
in the exhibition come from these turbulent times, while two
wedge-weave blankets in the exhibition represent the end of the
Late Classic period and Navajo weaving's entry into the
Transitional period.
Studying Navajo Blankets
Changes in wool quality, yarn composition and dyestuffs occurred
frequently in Navajo weaving during the Nineteenth Century. Such
dynamics inherent in the weaving materials now allow scholars to
reconstruct a more precise timeline for southwestern textile
types. The late Joe Ben Wheat, former curator of anthropology at
the University of Colorado Museum in Boulder, used technical
analyses, chemical dye tests and archival records in his
pioneering work on southwestern blankets. Using Wheat's methods,
including the scientific identification of red dyes, the
exhibition presents new research relative to dating The Textile
Museum's collection. Micrographs (closeup photographs) of yarns
in the exhibition's blankets illustrate the kinds of materials
that allow analysts to date each textile more accurately. Charts
of the dye analyses and examples of raw materials and tools are
also on display.
About the Curator
Hedlund, the curator for the exhibition, is director of the
Gloria F. Ross Center for Tapestry Studies at the Arizona State
Museum in Tucson. She holds a PhD in anthropology from the
University of Colorado, Boulder, where she began studying with
Wheat in 1973. Hedlund has conducted ethnographic research among
contemporary Navajo weavers and historical research on
southwestern textiles for 30 years. Currently a professor of
anthropology at the University of Arizona, Tucson, Hedlund is
author of numerous publications and recently edited the book
Blanket Weaving in the Southwest by Wheat, which was
recently released by the University of Arizona Press.
Other Exhibitions
Other exhibitions running concurrently at The Textile Museum
include a selection of African American quilts from the Robert
and Helen Cargo collection that will be on display through
February 29. The exhibition features African American quilts from
the South, primarily Alabama. Quilts from this region represent
an important chapter of American quilt history and reflect the
diverse traditions that merge to form the American quilting
heritage.
Phase II variant of a chief's style blanket, Navajo, circa
1880. Weft faced plain weave. Courtesy of The Textile Museum.
"Draped, Wrapped & Folded: Untailored Clothing" opens on
January 30 and remains on view through June 6. Though simple in
form, untailored clothing can reveal a great deal about both the
wearer and the culture from which the clothing originates. While
some cultures prefer to make highly tailored garments that echo the
human form, other cultures favor rectangular lengths of cloth worn
draped, wrapped or folded about the body. The exhibition highlights
this unique blend of complexity and simplicity in a showcase of 19
untailored garments from Africa, Asia and the Americas.
Founded in 1925 by George Hewitt Myers, The Textile Museum is an
international center for the exhibition, study, collection and
preservation of the textile arts. The museum explores the role
that textiles play in the daily and ceremonial life of
individuals the world over. Special attention is given to
textiles of the traditional societies of the Near East, Asia,
Africa and the indigenous cultures of the Americas. The museum
also presents exhibitions of historical and contemporary quilts
and fiber art. With a collection of more than 17,000 textiles and
carpets and an unparalleled library, The Textile Museum is a
unique and valuable resource for people locally, nationally and
internationally.
The Textile Museum is a private, nonprofit museum open Monday
through Saturday 10 am to 5 pm and Sunday 1 to 5 pm. Admission is
free; suggested donation is $5. The museum is at 2320 S Street
NW. For information, 202-667-0441.
