"Documents of Education," an exhibition of samplers and silk
embroideries from the collection of Betty Ring, at the American
Folk Art Museum, New York, April 1990.
Born Betty Ruth Abrego in Beaumont, Texas, in 1923, the
fifth-generation Lone Star native spent much of her young life
traveling, a fact that may explain her Olympian tolerance for the
chain hotels and rental cars that have been a mainstay of her life
on the road as a researcher. Her father, a dredging engineer, moved
his family from Texas to New York, New Jersey, South Carolina and
Delaware, capping his career with projects in Egypt and Japan.
"All my mother ever wanted was to be in Houston near her family,
but she never complained," recalls Mrs Ring, who returned to
Texas for high school. She left the University of Texas after two
years to marry Gregg Ring. The son and grandson of prosperous
Houston attorneys, her husband of 62 years founded a successful
business related to the oil-drilling industry.
Seven children were born to the couple between 1948 and 1963.
Much occupied with parenting, Mrs Ring spent free moments reading
about American antiques, which she began collecting in the
mid-1950s. For Christmas in 1965, Gregg Ring indulged his wife
with a complete set of The Magazine Antiques (he was
equally tolerant when she asked for Boston's early newspapers on
microfilm). She read Antiques from cover to cover.
"It was her graduate school," Antiques editor-at-large
Wendell Garrett has said.
Houston's blossoming preservation movement, in which Ima Hogg and
her friendly rival Faith Bybee played leading roles, was an
inspiration to Mrs Ring. Attorney James Hogg (1851-1906) was the
first native Texan to become governor. His culturally minded
daughter Ima (1882-1975), a founder of the Houston Symphony in
1913, began collecting American antiques in the 1920s. In 1957,
she donated her home, Bayou Bend, and its contents to the Museum
of Fine Arts, Houston.
The Hogg and Ring families were acquainted. As a young man, Gregg
Ring sometimes drove his grandmother out to visit Miss Ima, whose
father was a friend and colleague of Gregg's grandfather, Henry
Ring. When Betty Ring joined Bayou Bend's docent program in 1967,
Miss Ima took a special interest in her young protégé and her
husband. She invited the couple to attend her symphony dinners.
Always gentlemanly, Gregg Ring obliged, though privately the
quiet, courteous sportsman preferred the country life.
"About six months after my son Christopher was born in 1963, my
sister-in-law called to tell me that the Heritage Society was
looking for volunteers for its Kellum-Noble house," Betty Ring
recalls. Built in 1847, Houston's oldest surviving brick building
is located downtown in Sam Houston Park, along with seven other
Heritage Society properties. Mrs Ring immersed herself in her new
duties, quickly rising to the top of the organization. She joined
the society's board in 1965 and served as its president from 1975
to 1977.
Mrs Ring was soon involved in Bayou Bend, as well. On view by
appointment since 1961, the historic house museum opened
full-time in 1966. The first crop of docents was trained by
Jonathan Fairbanks. Winterthur director Charles Montgomery loaned
his sharp, young hire to Miss Ima for a summer after the
persistent heiress twisted his arm.
Another Winterthur fellow, David B. Warren, who Mrs Ring cites
among those most helpful to her, became Bayou Bend's first
curator. Mr Warren, who retired as Bayou Bend's director late
last year, was joined by another Winterthur graduate, Dean
Failey, Bayou Bend's associate curator from 1971 to 1974. The
collection's parent institution, the Museum of Fine Arts, was
headed by an ambitious young director named Philippe de
Montebello, who returned to New York to head The Metropolitan
Museum of Art.
"Bayou Bend opened one of the biggest doors in Betty's life,"
says Mr Failey, now Christie's senior director of American
decorative art. "Being exposed to a top-rate collection and being
asked as part of her training to engage in research had to have
been stimulating."
"She is one of the greats in the field of American decorative
art," says Mr Fairbanks, curator emeritus at the MFA, Boston and
a contributor to artfact.com. "The intensity of her desire to
learn initially surprised me. Years later, I'd go to the
Massachusetts Archives and there Betty would be. She knew it was
the only way to have original research."
The 1970s were heady times in Houston, a prosperous city
discovering its cultural potential. The Rings gave and attended
many dinners and parties, and it was through such social exchange
as well as her work as a docent that Betty Ring became friendly
with other Houston collectors and museum professionals. James
Nonemaker, director of the Heritage Society, introduced her to a
world of American decorative arts that lay beyond Houston; David
Warren showed Betty her first auction catalog; and Sue Jameson, a
fellow Bayou Bend docent, and her husband, Bob, collectors of
American furniture and Audubon prints, became two of the Rings'
closest friends. With Sue Jameson, Betty began traveling to the
Winter Antiques Show in New York and the Antiques Forum at
Colonial Williamsburg.
In 1967, with Miss Ima's encouragement, Betty organized "An
Exhibition of Eighteenth and Early Nineteenth Century American
Needlework" at Bayou Bend. A six-page booklet accompanied the
display of 34 embroideries, most of them from Mrs Ring's growing
collection. The talks Mrs Ring gave in conjunction with the
display marked the beginning of her lengthy career as a lecturer.
Everyone who has heard Mrs Ring describes her as a
preternaturally able speaker.
"She could talk for an hour and a half with hundreds of slides
and no notes. She quoted lengthy passages from memory. She made
sure that the color values were equivalent in the slides and that
the images were the same size. Every detail was thoroughly
considered," says Nancy Druckman, Sotheby's senior vice president
in charge of American folk art. Ms Druckman met Mrs Ring not long
after joining the auction house in 1972, when she and department
head Ronald de Silva were orchestrating sales of property from
the collection of Edgar William and Bernice Chrysler Garbisch.
"I brought down a collection of samplers from my friend Barbara
Taylor, an old-time dealer. Betty bought three of them," said Ron
Bourgeault, who began exhibiting at Houston's Theta Charity
Antiques Show from the late 1960s. Mrs Ring chose these
"accessories" for their "appealing naïveté and comforting
authenticity." In 1965, she paid Joe Kindig Jr $450 for a map
sampler and $425 for an alphabet sampler. Her friends thought the
prices exorbitant at the time.
In search of historical blue Staffordshire, one of her early
collecting interests, Mrs Ring visited specialist dealers Richard
and Virginia Woods in Baltimore, Md. Overwhelmed by the
selection, she left instead with her first silk embroidery. Her
appetite whetted, she bought a Washington memorial from the
Garbisch collection for $2,250 at Sotheby's, New York, in January
1974. Ms Druckman suspects the price was a record.
"It was mourning embroideries that really aroused my curiosity
and led to an intense interest in schoolgirl needlework," wrote
Mrs Ring. Although the Garbisches, Abby Aldrich Rockefeller,
Eleanor and Mabel Van Alstyne, Edith Gregor Halpert and Channing
Hare had owned silk memorials, little had been written on the
subject, a circumstance Mrs Ring found intolerable.
An epiphany occurred during a 1965 visit to the Chapel Hill,
N.C., home of part-time dealer Elizabeth Daniel, a college
professor and collector of silk memorials. Seeing the
sophisticated federal-era embroideries displayed together, it was
clear to Mrs Ring that the needlework formed stylistic groups,
evidence that girls had not worked independently but had been
tutored by accomplished instructors. Ms Daniel refused to break
her collection and Mrs Ring left North Carolina empty handed.
Through Mrs Ring's initiative, Ms Daniel later agreed to sell
three memorials to Miss Ima for Bayou Bend. Ms Daniel over time
relented and sold Mrs Ring a memorial, as well.
Encouraged by Ms Daniel and Ms Hogg, Mrs Ring began researching
silk memorials. American Samplers by Ethel Stanwood Bolton
and Eve Johnston Coe, published in Boston in 1921 by the
Massachusetts Society of the Colonial Dames of America, was the
field's only serious reference at the time. Although silk
embroideries had received far less attention than samplers, Mrs
Ring soon found that the makers of memorials on silk were easier
to identify than samplers because the works often incorporate
birth and death dates.
"If you look at old auction catalogs, they never say where a silk
embroidery is from or what the subject matter is. Thanks to
Betty, so much more is known: who the teachers were and what
girls were reading, which was often famous essayists or religious
literature. There was far more to women's education than we
supposed," say Old Saybrook, Conn., needlework specialists Carol
and Stephen Huber, who met Mrs Ring many years ago and have
remained among her closest friends.
"It was David Warren who mentioned my collection to Edith Gaines
at The Magazine Antiques, and I am especially indebted to
Alice Winchester for her faith in a novice," Mrs Ring wrote in
American Needlework Treasures. Ms Winchester, the
magazine's editor for 34 years, published Mrs Ring's first
article, "Memorial Embroideries by American Schoolgirls," in
October 1971. By 1993, it had been followed by 14 more articles,
plus another article co-written with Davida Deutsch and a
half-dozen "Collectors Notes."
When Ms Winchester retired from The Magazine Antiques, she
chose for her final cover in June 1972 a 1766 sampler by Susannah
Saunders from Betty Ring's collection. The magnificent Salem,
Mass., needlework is richly embroidered over its entire surface
with a pastoral scene.
"Ginsburg & Levy was always my first stop in New York. One
trip, my friend and I got there and just lost it," says Mrs Ring,
remembering the day she splurged on the Saunders sampler, her
favorite.
It was about this time that Mrs Ring met Ms Winchester's
successor, Wendell Garrett. Editor ofThe Magazine
Antiquesfrom 1972 to 1990, when he joined Sotheby's, Mr
Garrett came to Houston to lecture.
"Young man, if you don't speak up, I shall never be able to hear
you," Mrs Ring recalls Miss Ima calling to Mr Garrett from the
audience. Mrs Ring became further acquainted with Mr Garrett that
evening, over a dinner at the Jamesons. Mr Garrett was
subsequently a frequent visitor to Mrs Ring's home.
"Betty's home was a wonderful, comfortable place to be. Warm
colors and early American furniture added to the atmosphere.
Every surface had a magnificent embroidery or a family picture,"
says Betsy Garrett, vice president for collections and
interpretation at Strawbery Banke in Portsmouth, N.H.
Mrs Ring received supportive encouragement in her endeavors from
her husband and children, who "grew up without posters or
pennants in their bedrooms: they had mourning embroideries. They
withstood the comments of their friends with an admirable
nonchalance," she says.
Wendell Garrett published a dozen articles by Mrs Ring.
"Collecting American Samplers Today" appeared in June 1972,
followed by the "Salem Female Academy" in September 1974 and "Mrs
Saunders and Miss Beach's Academy, Dorchester" in August 1976.
"The more difficult it became to unravel the history, the more
intrigued I became," says Mrs Ring, who eventually found an
advertisement for the opening of the Saunders and Beach Academy
in the Columbian Centinelof February 5, 1803.
Mrs Ring continued to break ground with "Saint Joseph's Academy
in Needlework Pictures" in Antiques, March 1978; "Homage
to Washington in Needlework and Prints," co-authored with Davida
Deutsch, in February 1981; "Peter Grinnell and Son:
Merchant-Craftsmen of Providence, Rhode Island," in January 1980;
and "Looking Glass and Frame Makers Known by Their Labels,"
published in May 1981.
"One thing Betty is less well-known for is her checklist of
looking glass and frame makers. It is one of her great
contributions, a labor of meticulous research," says Allison
Ledes, who succeeded Garrett as Antiques' editor.
"Needlework Pictures at Bassett Hall" appeared in 1982; "Samplers
and Pictorial Needlework at the Chester County Historical
Society" in 1984; and "Needlework Pictures from Abby Wright's
School in South Hadley, Massachusetts" in 1986. Under Ms Ledes'
direction, Mrs Ring published articles on heraldic silk
embroideries from Boston in 1992 and 1993.
"Coats-of-arms are the most glorious needlework made by school
girls ever. They were the lavish embellishments of the richest
families," says Mrs Ring, for whom American heraldic embroidery
is a personal favorite.
"She spent enormous time collecting images and information from
institutions that barely knew what they had. She published from a
huge variety of sources," says Amy Finkel, a Philadelphia
specialist in antique needlework.
In 1972, Mrs Ring bid on a 1785 sampler by Nabby Dexter at
Sotheby's. It was the collector's first piece from the Mary Balch
School in Providence and it stirred in Mrs Ring a deep interest
in Rhode Island needlework. Within three years, she published her
first article on the subject, "The Balch School in Providence,
Rhode Island" in Antiques. She followed with "Mary Balch's
Newport Sampler" in Antiques in 1983.
In the course of her research, Mrs Ring discovered in the home of
a descendant a sampler by Mary Balch's mother, Sarah Rogers. It
was later given to the Rhode Island Historical Society. Ms
Balch's own girlhood sampler, worked in Newport, surfaced in
California about the same time. The mother and daughter
embroideries were possibly the "most important samplers to appear
during the Twentieth Century, for they provide a keystone for
understanding the extraordinary sampler embroidery of Rhode
Island," Mrs Ring wrote. In 1973, she approached the Rhode Island
Historical Society about organizing an exhibition but was
rebuffed.
"Let's do it," historical society president Joseph K. Ott replied
after Mrs Ring approached the museum again in 1979. She spent the
next three and a half years commuting to Providence to work on
"Let Virtue Be A Guide To Thee: Needlework in The Education of
Young Women, 1730-1820." In late 1983, the traveling exhibition
of 122 samplers, silk embroideries and related artifacts debuted
at the Rhode Island Historical Society, accompanied by a 276-page
catalog of the same name. The catalog, which originally cost
$22.50, today sells for about $800.
"The night 'Let Virtue Be A Guide To Thee' opened at The
Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York was the most glamorous
moment of my life. When the show opened at the Museum of Fine
Arts, Houston, in February 1984, Sotheby's came down and planned
an elegant dinner to follow the evening opening and invited me to
choose the guests. It was a wonderfully generous gesture and a
truly fabulous evening, a major milestone for me," Betty recalls.
The landmark display emphasized a regional body of needlework and
the teachers who influenced it.
"Betty had already proven herself in her articles. She moved into
the major leagues with a big exhibition, a big catalog and
openings in three cities," Wendell Garrett observes.
"Let Virtue Be A Guide To Thee" followed by five years "A Gallery
of American Samplers," an exhibition at the American Folk Art
Museum in New York showcasing the collection of Theodore H.
Kapnek. Accompanying the show was a catalog written by Glee F.
Krueger and edited by Cyril Nelson of E.P. Dutton.
Mr Kapnek, a Philadelphia businessman, died two years later. In
1981, Sotheby's auctioned his collection for $641,300, a
staggering three times estimate. The sale marked the beginning of
the modern market for American needlework, a market already
shaped by Mrs Ring's scholarship. Mrs Ring acquired the top lot,
a charming pictorial sampler made in 1830 by a Berks County,
Penn., girl, Matilda Filbert, for a record $41,800, including
premium. Mr Kapnek, who once told Mrs Ring that he never paid
more than $2,000 for a sampler, purchased Miss Filbert's
"accomplishment" for about $2,200 in 1975 from West Chester,
Penn., dealer Elizabeth Matlack.
Encouraged by the success of the Kapnek collection, Robert
Bishop, director of the American Folk Art Museum, invited Mrs
Ring to exhibit her personal collection. The accompanying
catalog, American Needlework Treasures: Samplers and Silk
Embroideries From The Collection of Betty Ringby Betty Ring,
was published by E.P. Dutton in 1987. The exhibition of 165
samplers and silk embroideries opened at the museum in 1990. (The
museum had to postpone the show, which had been planned for 1987,
after its arrangements for a temporary gallery space fell
through.)
Organized by state and school, the 112-page American
Needlework Treasureswas in some ways a prototype for Mrs
Ring's next book, her monumental, two-volume Girlhood
Embroidery: American Samplers and Pictorial Needlework,
1650-1850, published by Knopf in 1993. It took Mrs Ring the
better part of a decade to write it.
"The main idea was to get everything on the page where you could
see and compare. The second intention was to direct attention to
the long-forgotten educators of one half of the population of
early America," she told Antiques and The Arts Weekly.
"It was a struggle getting it all together," says the author. As
always, Mrs Ring persevered, traveling the country with
photographer Arthur Vitols. Extraordinarily helpful to her during
these years were Dorothy McCoach, a textile conservator in
Bethlehem, Penn.; Elizabeth Cadbury, an English-born friend with
a great knowledge of English and Quaker history, and her
daughter, Alison Senter; and Mary Linda Zonana, who herself was
immersed in early New York history. Joan Stephens, a fellow
collector who lived in Potomac, Md., and was a docent at the
Smithsonian, was a fast friend and frequent traveling companion.
Mrs Ring and Ms Stephens met in 1981 at the American Institute of
Textile Arts at Pine Manor College in Boston, a program organized
by Mildred Davis.
Girlhood Embroidery illustrated 600 samplers and silk
embroideries, dividing them into regions, states, counties, towns
and schools. Appropriately, Alice Winchester wrote the foreword.
"To my knowledge, it's the only work on American decorative arts
that has ever been reviewed by The Wall Street
Journal," Wendell Garrett remarked at the time. (The
Journal's lay critic thought Mrs Ring's effort "awesome"
but was spooked by the mourning pictures, which he called "eerily
premonitory of Edward Gorey.") Reviewed in Time and The
New Yorker, as well, Girlhood Embroiderywas most
enthusiastically endorsed in The Magazine Antiques.
There, New York University professor Colin Eisler wrote, "Seldom
does one see what, inarguably, is the ultimate publication of its
genre: comprehensive, encyclopedic, erudite, and presented with
clarity and modesty. ...No student of earlier life in the United
States - whether concerned with craft, pictorial, education,
familial, or feminist issues - can afford to ignore Ring's
stupendous achievement."
"Betty essentially made the field, and she did it in two ways:
with her collecting and with her scholarship," says Wendell
Garrett.
"If you look analytically at what categories of American folk art
bring the highest prices, needlework is right up there. Betty did
not set out to transform the market, but her scholarship and
publications had that result," says Nancy Druckman. Agrees Amy
Finkel, "Collectors turn to American samplers with great
assurance because of what she has done."

"Betty moved into the major leagues with 'Let Virtue Be a Guide
to Thee,'" says Wendell Garrett. In February 1984, the
traveling exhibit of Rhode Island needlework opened at the MFA
Houston. At a gala hosted by Sotheby's were, from left, Betty,
American decorative arts head Bill Stahl, and Flo Crady,
Sotheby's Houston representative.
Prices for American samplers and silk embroideries have
advanced dramatically since the Garbisch and Kapnek sales. The Joan
Stephens Collection, auctioned in 1997 after the collector's death,
realized $1,771,397, nearly three times what Kapnek brought 16
years earlier. The record price for American needlework, unlikely
to be surpassed soon, stands at $1,157,500, the price paid by the
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston at Sotheby's in 1996 for Hannah Otis's
canvaswork chimney piece.
"Most appealing to me are not unique examples but pieces that
represent the prevailing taste of the regions from which they
came," says Mrs Ring, whose collection would propel the market
once again should it ever be for sale. Experts regard it as a
connoisseur's collection, as scholarly as it is beautiful.
"Ultimately, my collection probably will be sold. I want someone
who will follow me to look up and say, 'Gosh, I just love this
thing,'" Mrs Ring confesses.
"I had no plan, just the interest and the opportunity," Mrs Ring
says with significant understatement of her extraordinary career.
Though some early American schoolmistresses remain unidentified,
it is unlikely that anyone will again approach the subject of
girlhood embroidery with as much ambition as Mrs Ring did.
"It was quite by chance that my life turned toward collecting
objects that reflect so much social history, still largely
unexplored. Trying to reconstruct the lives of teacher-artists
through the needlework of their students has been both a
challenge and a somewhat lonely pursuit. Occasionally, though, I
have met with some success, and the satisfaction has been like
the solving of a mystery," writes Mrs Ring.
"I don't think anyone can follow in her footsteps, though there
will be people who take on individual groups or schools or
questions. The standard that Betty set for herself and lived up
to has become the bar," says Amy Finkel. Agrees Nancy Druckman,
"Betty put this together, stitch by stitch. It's a towering
achievement under any circumstances."
In 1985, Mrs Ring provided additional insight into her motivation
when she told theChristian Science Monitor, "The antiques
world is a community of people who live in all places,
everywhere, but who stay in touch with each other. I have lived
in Houston all of my adult life, but my specialized interest has
taken me out into the world and made me part of a much broader
community. I have loved every aspect of this wider experience."