:It was a time of liberation, the glitz and glamour of movies and
their stars, of dance crazes and all that jazz - it was the
Roaring Twenties when a generation's fads were de rigueur.
Nothing gives more insight into this fascinating era in American
history than the fashion craze that swept across the country and
helped to shape the fabric of this decade.
Center stage among the medical, technical and industrial advances
were the new trends in couture as women shimmied into this new
era with their calves showing and fringes flowing. The Charleston
Museum is showcasing the 1920s clothing phenomenon in the first
installment of the exhibition "Age of Glamour: Fashions of the
1920s and 1930s" that runs though September 5. The second portion
of the exhibit featuring the fashions of the 1930s will open
September 9 and continue through February 2007.
Founded in 1773, the Charleston Museum is considered America's
first museum and, according to curator Jan Hiester, "We started
collecting textiles and clothing around 1917 or so; it became
part of our mission. These are all from local donors cleaning out
their grandmother's attic or for whatever reason, finding neat
things that they then offer to the museum. In the 1980s, we
narrowed our focus a little bit so that when we accept something
it really has to have something to do with this area of the
country, the South Carolina low country."
The museum houses more than 8,000 pieces in its textile and
costumes archives. Rotating exhibits, such as this current one,
enable it to feature rarely seen items as an annex to its
permanent exhibitions.
The crescent pin hair ornament from the 1920s is embellished
with rhinestones and aigrettes, long delicate feathers from the
egret. This may have been worn with a bandeau or headband,
either focused in the center of the forehead or on one side.
Having just ended an exhibit of undergarments titled
"Foundations of Fashion," the museum was ready to change gears and
expose the fun side of the 1920s. "We're focusing on the glamorous
aspects. I know that the 20s wasn't all fun and games, but for this
particular exhibition, that's what we're focusing on. It's more
just to highlight our own collections and that our history doesn't
really stop at 1900, which is what our permanent exhibition goes up
to right now. But it's a little more fun to bring out some of these
other decades and time periods and remind people that we're still
making history," admits Hiester.
Fashions of the 1920s were a drastic change for women. From
hemlines to hair, the new styles added a different kind of
feminine flair. "Women were no longer under the same
restrictions. World War I had a big impact on a woman's attitude
toward herself, as well as men's attitudes toward women. The
corsetry went out the window and the big bustles and hoops were
no longer considered interesting. Women were showing a lot more
skin, skirts were rising, and the whole attitude was a little
freer and looser," says Hiester. "There was more emphasis on
sports and activities, so clothing became a little more
comfortable and active. It was a real big change. It's the first
time that women really didn't wear the restrictive corsets of the
previous decades."
Indeed, the outfits on display reflect more than just utilizing
less fabric; they highlight a gender freed from buttons, bows and
stays. Clothes swathed in beading, fringe and sequins serve to
focus on the glamorous theme of the exhibition. Many of the
dresses were worn at the dances and parties that became popular
events in the 1920s. Radio awakened the senses to the latest
sounds, and jazz had the country moving and shaking to a new
awe-inspiring beat. The outfits swayed along to these upbeat
rhythms in liberating new dance crazes, such as the Charleston,
Fox Trot and the Shimmy.