House of Fabergé (Russian, 1846–1920) and Henrik Wigström, workmaster, imperial rose trellis egg, gold, enamel, diamonds, 1907. The Walters Art Museum, Baltimore, Md.
:At the end of the Nineteenth Century, three ateliers in New York, Paris and St Petersburg were preparing the final touches on spectacular examples of decorative objects and jewelry for an event with global implications –– the 1900 International Exposition in Paris, which would be attended by more than 50 million visitors. There the work of three artists, Peter Carl Fabergé, Louis Comfort Tiffany and Rene Lalique, would be exhibited at the same venue for the first and only time.
"Artistic Luxury: Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique" returns to that historic moment and explores the master techniques and artistry of the three prominent designers –– and the rivalry between them. The exhibition is organized by the Cleveland Museum of Art and the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco and is on view at the Legion of Honor through May 31.
"Artistic Luxury: Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique" brings together nearly 250 objects from more than 40 international lenders including Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and His Serene Highness Prince Albert of Monaco, as well as institutions and private lenders in London, Moscow, St Petersburg, Paris, Berlin, Hamburg and across the United States.
Exhibition highlights include seven Easter eggs by Fabergé, including imperial examples, such as the imperial blue serpent egg clock owned by Princess Grace of Monaco, one rare imperial Easter egg by Cartier and the imperial basket of flowers by Fabergé, as well as bibelots and jewelry designed for the Russian tsars and their family and later sold by the Bolsheviks.
The US debut of the Magnolia Window by Louis Comfort Tiffany and Tiffany Studios is a highlight. This stained glass window was purchased in Paris in 1901 for the collection of Baron Stieglitz, a close courtier of Tsar Nicholas II in St Petersburg, and has only recently been exhibited in Russia.
Tiffany & Co. (American, 1837–present), Louis Comfort Tiffany (American, 1848–1933), designer, Indian-style pendant, opal pendant set with Australian opals, topaz, crysoberyl, green andradite garnets, sapphires and pearls, 1915–1920. American Museum of Natural History, gift of Lilias Betts.
Major examples of Louis Comfort Tiffany's Favrile glass, including vases and a large selection of his incomparable glass lamps, are presented, as well as jewelry featuring diamonds and rare gemstones by Tiffany & Co.
René Lalique's extraordinary Art Nouveau designs for artistic jewelry incorporating stylized insects and birds, plant forms, mythical creatures and idealized female figures are on view. Lalique's glass is also featured, including his Frogs and Lily Pads vase.
The exhibition also showcases stylized bronze sculptures of women metamorphosing into butterflies that decorated Lalique's booth at the 1900 Exposition.
"Artistic Luxury" takes a critical look at the development, design and marketing of each artist and explores how Fabergé, Tiffany and Lalique responded to the demand for luxurious decorative objects at the turn of the Twentieth Century. Although all three designers competed for the same commissions and customers –– royalty, political leaders, actors and captains of industry –– each was known for his own characteristic style, which is displayed through separate galleries devoted to each designer.
In the end, the three artists were united by a common purpose: to elevate the mundane object (umbrella handles, lamps, inkwells, etc) into the most luxurious and artistic creations imaginable for their illustrious clientele. Their work became the ultimate status symbol of the Gilded Age.
The Legion of Honor is at Lincoln Park, 34th Avenue and Clement Street. For information, 415-750-3600 or
www.legionofhonor.org
.
