"Artistry from the Loom: New Jersey Historical Jacquard Coverlets," displays textiles which have been drawn from private and museum collections and are representative of the abilities and artistic expression of early Nineteenth Century New Jersey weavers. Guest curator Peggy Foy began her research seven years ago.

Generally, natural cotton yarns and wools of various colors were selected for coverlets woven on looms. Some of the completed coverlets are one width wide. However, when a greater width than the loom could accommodate was necessary, two equal pieces or strips were woven. Once removed from the loom, the halves would be hand stitched together down the center. The possibilities were limited only by the imagination and skill of the weaver, differences in the looms and the type of fibers used.

Early New Jersey coverlets in various geometric patterns were produced in a double-weave structure using yards of indigo blue, white, terra-cotta red, or a combination of these colors. The resulting designs are bold and striking. By the early 1830s the jacquard apparatus was available, and New Jersey weavers soon became proficient at producing the new "fancy" coverlets with figural motifs. Due to the popularity and availability of this exciting new style of bed cover, weaving flourished in New Jersey. Initially these textiles were produced out of necessity for warmth. Today they are treasured for the beauty they impart and the history of the lives they reflect.

Both geometric pattern and jacquard coverlets are on view. Many have not previously been displayed. The majority of the exhibit focuses on diverse and exuberantly designed jacquard coverlets with elaborate borders and interesting color variations.

In single and double weave structures, many of these coverlets also have corner blocks where valuable information is located. It is here that the maker's name, the customer's name, location and a date or a portion of that information, was woven. These corner blocks personalized the textile while producing a lasting documented form of advertisement for the weaver. To assure the continued success of their business, several weavers combined this marketing technique with additional advertising in local newspapers.

Approximately nine weavers from Somerset, Warren, Bergen and Sussex Counties are represented. There will be a selection of coverlets from the Van Doren family, Somerset County. These three brothers descended from a family of weavers who lived and worked in the Millstone area. Their coverlets contain large medallions in the floral pattern known as "Lilies of France." Patriotic symbols including eagles and the word "Liberty" are repeated within the border design. These coverlets were woven in single and double weave structures in several color combinations.

Christian Van Nortwick, from Warren County, owned and operated his own weaving business known as the Ark Factory, on the Musconetcong River in Asbury. Three different styles of his coverlets have been found. Using two, three or four colors of yarns, he wove stunning and unique variations. A man with strong business acumen, his factory continued until 1850.

In nearby Stillwater, Sussex County, John Stiff began his career prior to 1834. It was in that year that he updated his loom and was ready to weave figured goods. Stiff placed advertisements in local newspapers, so it is possible to trace his business locations. In 1838 he moved to Montague, Sussex County, a larger town situated near the Pennsylvania border. His client base was once again extended to include local residents as well as those in the larger nearby towns. In 1840 another move took place, this time a short distance away to Milford, Penn. After a few years at that location, no further records were located. His coverlets closely resemble some of the Somerset and Warren County examples.

Bergen County is represented by David Haring and I. Christie. Their coverlets are typically woven in indigo blue wool and natural cotton yarns, or in two shades of blue wool. The numerous surviving examples display diverse variety of designs. The Dutch presence in the local communities influenced some of the design elements. Tulip motifs were very popular, and borders are often woven with buildings, birds, flowers and the "partridge in the tree" design.

Some coverlets are signed. The makers of others are verified only by attribution. Nathanial Young, a weaver whose roots remain a mystery, will also be represented. Naturalistic motifs abound; he often used pineapples, grapes, cornucopias, as well as florals. Some of his textiles resemble the Bergen County weavers while others seem more individualistic.

(The Nabisco Gallery is on River Road at DeForest Avenue. It is open daily from noon to 4 pm. Telephone, 201/503-4425.)