At the 1878 Paris fair, Tiffany's innovative Japanesque silver was awarded the grand prize: This "Grand Prix Spider Tray" uses characteristic elements of Tiffany Japanesque-style silver, such as undulating hammer marks, a palette of colored metals, and realistic images of flora and fauna.

 

An American Design Legacy

The Tiffany & Co Archives

NEW YORK CITY - In celebration of its rise as a premier American jeweler and silversmith, Tiffany & Co is presenting the largest exhibition of Tiffany jewelry and silver designs ever held in-store. "An American Design Legacy: Highlights from the Tiffany & Co Archives" is on view at the company's New York store at Fifth Avenue at 57th Street through September 11.

The exhibition comprises over 70 objects, many of which are being shown for the first time. The show is drawn entirely from the company's archives, a repository of Tiffany designs spanning the company's history, as well as objects that reflect the firm's continuing interest in the artistic styles of other cultures. Divided into five themes, the exhibition captures the spirit both of the age and of Tiffany as a uniquely American institution that has influenced style and taste for over eight generations.

"Flora and Fauna" focuses on the theme of nature, an inspiration for Tiffany design since the company's founding in 1837. Edward C. Moore (1827-1891), Tiffany's first chief designer, began an in-house atelier called the Tiffany School. Artists were surrounded by fresh flowers, mounted animals, bowls of goldfish and terrariums filled with frogs. Among the magnificent creations that resulted from this influence is the 1890 "Dragonfly" convertible brooch and hair ornament in gold, silver, diamonds and sapphires. Its wings, set en tremblant on springs, flutter with the slightest movement.

"World's Fairs" features objects created for the great international expositions, which attracted thousands of spectators and gave Tiffany the opportunity to showcase its designs. The company owns the largest collection of Tiffany designs exhibited at world's fairs, including the eight floral-motif brooches. The "White Orchid" brooch, with gem-set gold and enamel is, an exquisite example of Art Nouveau design. It is one of several orchid brooches exhibited at the 1889 Paris World's Fair. Patterned after 50 varieties of Asian and South American orchids, these masterpieces of American decorative arts received first prize for jewelry, establishing Tiffany as a world-renowned firm.

Early in its history, Tiffany set a high standard for gemstones used in its jewelry. Colored gemstones are a hallmark of Tiffany jewelry. "Gemstones" features the "American Flag Brooch" in platinum, diamonds, rubies and sapphires. This is one of the earliest and largest known examples of American flag jewelry, and is believed to have been created to celebrate the US Centennial in 1876.

"Personal Style" includes the 1941 "Trophee" clip designed by Jean Schlumberger (1907-1987) for Diana Vreeland, then editor-in-chief of Vogue magazine. The clip depicts a warrior's chain mail in diamonds with shield in oval-cut amethyst and rubies; and longbow, arrows, spear, and sword in blue enamel. This design is an example of the color and three-dimensionality of all Schlumberger's great jewels.

"Living in Style" traces the American way of opulence in the Gilded Age. In the homes of prosperous Americans, all of the special rituals had their corresponding objects. The parlor of every upper-middle-class home may have contained a coffee set, but the ornate coffee set in sterling silver, gold, pearls and enamel (1876-1902) elevates a commonplace item to an extravagant indulgence.

Tiffany & Co curators will lead walking tours of the exhibition on August 5, 12, 19 and September 9. All tours begin at 6 pm on the second floor. Telephone 212/605-4674.