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Cowboys & The Trappings of the Old West |
By Williams Manns and Elizabeth Clair Flood |
| Zon International Publishing Company, P.O. Box 6459, Santa Fe, N.M., 87502, 1997, pp. 222, $45, hardcover. |
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| The aptly titled chapter "I Can See by Your Outfit that You Are a Cowboy" begins this history of cowboy subculture, written from the perspective of its accoutrements. Manns and Flood, like good detectives, investigate both the real cowboy and his Hollywood image using clues left behind: from hats, guns, saddles and spurs to boots, knives, chaps and saloon memorabilia. Tobacco tins, vintage advertising, movie stills and even clothing worn by frontier prosititutes help complete the picture. Values are not given here; rather, Cowboys appears to be a labor of love by its authors. "This book celebrates artisans and craftsmen," writes Manns in his introduction. If the sheer number and range of items detailed are any indication, "labor" is a fitting word to employ. More than 4,000 beautifully photographed items from the best private and public US collections are featured, divided into seven main chapters including "Going Heeled," "Saddle Leather," "Trail Dust," "Calico Queens," "Split Skirts," and "Myth Makers." Craftsmanship is very much the focus of this book, as the sumptuous saddles of G.H. & J.S. Collins of Omaha, Neb.; S.D. Myres, of El Paso, Tex.; and Edward H. Bohlin; and the wonderful, silver-encrusted Mexican presentation saddles, scabbards and bridles - which influenced American makers - are prominently and competently examined. Regional differences among artisans are also carefully noted. "A California saddle wasn't built for chasing wild longhorns through mesquite," notes Mann. "[These] saddles tended to be a bit lighter in weight, typically had rounded skirts, and were often carved with floral decorations or ranching scenes." "Split Skirts," a chapter on cowgirls, will be of particular interest to collectors and dealers of items in this burgeoning field, and will garner a new appreciation in those unfamiliar with this group's unique role in Victorian society. Cowgirls both benefited from, and contributed to, changing attitudes toward women during the late 1800s. Their popular appearances in Wild West shows and rodeos included not only demanding shooting, riding and acrobatic acts, but trend-setting fashion statements as well. "In the Sears, Roebuck catalogue of 1902, 12 models of sidesaddles were offered, compared to 21 in the 1897 catalogue," the author observes. Thanks to cowgirls, riding astride was here to stay. An excellent, 40-source bibliography is provided, as well as a resource guide to Western museums. Cowboys & The Trappings of the Old West is a terrific visual history for readers both inside and outside the trade.
- By Liza Montgomery
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