Thirty minutes into the show on its second day, potential buyers and longtime clients busily browsed the booths of the more than 80 dealers in attendance from around the world.
Review & Onsite Photos by Kiersten Busch
NEW YORK CITY — Nestled in between Chelsea and Flatiron — just off of where Sixth Street meets West 18th Street — lies the Metropolitan Pavilion, the location of the 9th annual New York City Jewelry & Watch Show, which took place October 24-27. Organized by the Palm Beach Show Group, which host around 10 shows a year across the country, the four-day event featured more than 80 exhibitors from around the world.
The show, which has a “legacy as one of the most anticipated jewelry events of the year,” according to a pre-event press release, had a diverse selection of antique and vintage jewelry, estate jewelry, loose diamonds and rare gemstones, handcrafted pieces, unique modern and contemporary jewelry and luxury watches for experienced collectors and first-time buyers alike.
In an email following the show, Kelsi Monteith, executive director of communications for the Palm Beach Show Group, said “The 9th Annual Show presented an unparalleled array of antique, estate and contemporary jewelry collections, attracting thousands of visitors from around the world. Many exhibitors reported record sales and the presence of a younger audience underscored a shifting trend in the jewelry and watch industry.”
A view down the first aisle of booths, just past the entrance to the show. Even a few hours into the show, attendees still flocked to the booths of their favorite dealers, trying to find the perfect piece in preparation for the upcoming holidays.
On the sunny and mild-mannered morning of October 25, the second day of the show, doors opened at 11 am, allowing a rush of new faces and old clients through a security checkpoint and into the pavilion, where a maze of glass booths — shining and sparkling under bright lights — awaited them.
One of the first booths inside the show was Jewels by Grace, Los Angeles, where longtime clients were already discussing the multitude of jewelry behind the business’ several filled-to-the-brim display cases with Julia Lavarro. “We’ve been doing really well,” she responded, when asked how the first day, Thursday, had gone. “We’ve had a nice flow of people, with lots of folks looking for bridal pieces — jewelry, bands.” Jewels by Grace specializes in vintage and antique diamonds and rings: engagement or custom, all using recycled vintage and antique gemstones. They also carry signed pieces, such as Cartier and Bulgari, among many others. “I think people are interested in being surrounded by others who are obsessed with jewelry; we really tend to get the fanatics,” Lavarro also shared, beaming.
Flying in all the way from London was Keith Macrae with JS Jewels Ltd. Macrae revealed that he specializes in “a little bit of everything, really,” and was quick to point out his diverse spread of vintage and signed jewelry. What had been getting the most foot traffic in his booth? Mostly the signed jewelry, especially the few Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces he was offering from the 1960s. “The tiara is also always quite popular,” he laughed, gesturing to a dazzling tiara in the bottom right corner of his booth, adorned with diamonds. The star of his booth, however, was a Patek Philippe watch manufactured completely from lapis lazuli stones; it came with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer, adding to its appeal.
The standout piece from JS Jewels Ltd., London, was this Patek Philippe watch made from lapis lazuli stones, which came with a certificate of authenticity.
“It’s been very good, with several people buying,” explained Hernan Terramagra, Hidden Treasures Jewelry, Miami, Fla. “However, people are not asking for diamonds, but jewelry. Signed jewelry is the trend right now.” Terramagra offered a spread of antique jewelry, both signed and unsigned, mostly sourced from estates. He was particularly proud to display some old Tiffany rings with pearls, and a selection of unsigned gold bracelets. “Sometimes, nice jewelry works, too,” he quipped, expressing that just because a piece was unsigned, doesn’t mean it didn’t have any value to customers.
It was “so far so good!” for Katie Hanson, who was with J.S. Fearnley. The Atlanta-based company specializes in pre-owned estate pieces, “ranging from fairly new to 10-100 years old, depending on the piece,” she explained. Hanson reported lots of traffic on the first day, and around the same amount that morning. “The Buccellati pieces have been quite popular,” she said, sharing that the owner believed the stand-out piece in their booth was a Buccellati necklace made with emeralds and diamonds, which was apparently “quite rare.”
“We always love coming into New York,” said Nikki Itkin of L and Z Antique and Estate Jewelers, which is based in Morrisville, Penn. The business, which had an incredible display of designer pieces, antique and Victorian jewelry and chunky gold necklaces and bracelets, also specializes in Art Deco jewelry, of which they have a “huge collection,” according to Itkin. “Most of our buys have been Art Deco,” she added.
An attendee browsed the heavily packed cases at L and Z Antique and Estate Jewelers, Morrisville, Penn.
Aaron Faber Gallery, New York City, specializes in all things watches. Edward Faber, the owner, was engrossed in conversation with two fellow watch enthusiasts — and potential clients — when we approached his booth, so we caught up with his assistant, Staci Elster, to discuss the other offerings Faber brought with him. “We’ve had a decent amount of foot traffic so far,” Elster began. “We’ve sold some collectible special pieces — mostly watches and our better jewelry.” On the non-watch side of the booth, Elster navigated signed pieces by David Webb, Tiffany and Cartier, among others. The stand-out piece, of course, had to come from the watch side: a Chopard wristwatch with a ram on its dial.
It was hard to catch Ashley Zhang Jewelry at a quiet moment. The small booth was bustling with a steady stream of inquisitive browsers, buyers and clients, interested in the antique and bridal jewelry the New York City-based business offered, alongside a small selection of owner Ashley Zhang’s own designed collection. One of the booth’s standout pieces, however, was a Belle Époque marquise diamond and ruby ring, which was also featured in the Palm Beach Show Group’s pre-show press release.
Courtville Antiques traveled to New York City all the way from Dublin, Ireland. Owner Matthew Weldon reported that the opening day on Thursday went very well, with interest from both clients and fellow dealers. This was the company’s second year at the show, and when asked what prompted their return, Weldon explained, “Back home, we get a lot of interest from Americans visiting Ireland. This show is a good opportunity to come and meet those Americans locally. We like to meet clients here, many call us in advance, and they’re able to bring their friends with them.” Courtville Antiques specializes in selling original antique jewelry from the 1890s and earlier, including serpent jewelry, antique cut diamonds and Victorian jewelry. “We have genuinely some of the rarest pieces,” explained Weldon. “We spend a lot of time looking for originals.” Weldon’s favorite piece on offer was an early Victorian three-stone mine cut diamond ring, which was 5.5 carats.
This Victorian diamond ring from Courtville Antiques incorporated three mine-cut diamonds and weighed 5.5 carats. Owner Matthew Weldon chose the ring from the company’s selection of original, one of a kind antique jewelry, which traveled with him from Dublin, Ireland.
Also back for their second year was Earth Pebbles Fine Vintage & Estate Jewelry, based in Raleigh, N.C. We spoke to owner Rebekah Anderson, who explained that things were “a little bit slow at first, but now things are good.” The company specializes in vintage and everyday estate jewelry from every era. Anderson personally curates everything she offers and said that her collection “speaks to so many different people and sellers who are all so unique. Every piece has a different story. Just because it’s small, doesn’t mean it’s not fabulous!”
Ronald Kawitzsky of D.K. Bressler & Co., Inc., New York City, is a NYC Jewelry & Watch Show veteran: he has been attending since the show’s start. He is also a subscriber to Antiques and The Arts Weekly, and enthusiastically said, “We are always getting them!” Kawitzsky reported that the show had been alright so far and thought that it was “a way to wind up before Christmas. It’s a good indoor show after a long summer; we’re back in the swing of things.” He offered “super duper” classical jewelry from every epoch, but specializes in Nineteenth Century jewelry, both signed and unsigned. “Good design is good design,” he said, shrugging as he did so. Kawitzsky shared that he particularly liked this show because it brought people, both fellow dealers and customers, from around the world to New York City.
An employee (right) and clients turned their heads to listen to the words of Ronald Kawitzsky (not pictured), owner of D.K. Bressler & Co., Inc., based in New York City.
Alison Woodward of Reverie reported a “very busy!” second day when we spoke to her a few hours into the show. As for the first day? “It was definitely very busy as well, we sold a lot and had to rearrange the showcase, so it didn’t look empty for today!” Reverie, based in New York City’s Manhattan Art & Antique Center, specializes in jewelry spanning from the Georgian period to Midcentury, including Art Deco and Victorian jewelry. Woodward also reported that “people are buying a lot of gold. It’s surprising to me because it’s so expensive, so we are glad to have a lot of it here.”
Another New York City-based business was Mahnaz Collection, owned by Mahnaz Ispahani Bartos. Bartos was deep in discussion with potential buyers, so we spoke with her assistant, Adrienn Banyai, in her stead. “Things have been good, it was busy on the first day,” explained Banyai. The company specializes in vintage jewelry from the 1950s and onwards. After much thought, Banyai chose a gold John Paul Miller ring set with lapis lazuli as her favorite item in the booth.
Our final stop for the day was at the booth of Bradley Wilson and Joshua Kirby, who make up Wilson’s Estate Jewelry. Based in Philadelphia, the duo mostly offers antique jewelry — some signed — and colored stones. “It’s been a typical New York show,” said Wilson, “We were busy the first day, busier than we expected.” Their favorite items in the booth were a set of three Art Nouveau pieces from circa 1900 and one Victorian era necklace, which blended in with the Nouveau pieces quite well. What do Wilson and Kirby like about the show? “It’s a small show, so there are fewer dealers to buy from.”
From left, three Art Nouveau pieces from circa 1900, and one Victorian era necklace, which Bradley Wilson and Joshua Kirby chose as their favorite pieces on offer. Wilson’s Estate Collection, Philadelphia.
Via the post-show email sent by Monteith, Scott Diament, president and CEO of the Palm Beach Show Group, NYC Show producers, shared, “We are thrilled to see the New York City Jewelry & Watch Show grow year after year, both in attendance and in engagement from younger collectors. The enthusiastic response from social media influencers and the widespread coverage they provided made this year’s show particularly special. We look forward to welcoming everyone back next year for what promises to be an even more exciting event.”
The dates for the 2025 New York City Jewelry & Watch Show have not yet been announced. The Palm Beach Show Group’s next show is The Palm Beach Show, which will take place January 22-26. For information, www.nycjaws.com or www.palmbeachshowgroup.com.
