Julie Gaines is half of the founding team of Fishs Eddy, one of the largest retailers of American-made dishware bearing the monograms and logos of establishments past and present. The New York City shop, co-owned by David Lenovitz, is a landmark of design in its own right. In addition to its in-house line of serving ware, Fishs Eddy has released collaborations with artists, designers, celebrities and more. Now, the storied retailer is inviting the public into its archives. Antiques and The Arts Weekly corresponded with Gaines to learn more.
How did you decide to focus on vintage namesake serving ware for Fishs Eddy?
It wasn’t really an intentional decision; I actually spent my entire life trying to get out of doing dishes! But when we opened a store 37 years ago, we had no clear direction other than selling found paintings, little tables, old crates and things like that. We were natural-born scavengers, and soon after opening the store, we found ourselves in the sub-basements of the restaurant suppliers in New York City’s Bowery. It was a sight for sore eyes, thousands of plates, cups, creamers, gravy boats and bullion cups dating back to the turn of the century. These were pieces of historical significance, and it was love at first sight. When I tell this story, I always preface it with the understanding that today with eBay, American Pickers and Antiques RoadShow, we would never have stood a chance. We were clearly in the right place at the right time!
The flagship shop is gigantic by New York City standards. How do you keep it filled?
Keeping the store filled is a big challenge because we try to communicate that these “wares” are not precious, this is commercial dishware made for restaurants, academic societies, country clubs, diners, airlines and any establishment that needs corporate china. We were immediately taken by the durability, beautiful shapes and all the different logos. Covid presented new hurdles as far as keeping the store stocked, but after 35 years of merchandising, we have our tricks. We became the unofficial landing ground for manufacturers’ seconds and overruns, not to mention the opportune buys that often came our way. And then there are our own patterns, usually inspired by our collection of vintage china. Our motto on the floor is: no space goes unfilled!
Tell us about the upstairs “museum.”
It’s pretty much the smallest museum with the biggest gift shop! Upstairs is our collection of American-made restaurant ware that was literally excavated from the Bowery 37 years ago. What’s interesting is that when we found it? It was already sitting there for 75 years. During Covid, I decided to share it with people, because it’s an important part of American history that needs to be seen.
Julie Gaines’ personal collection of dishware.
Why did Fishs Eddy decide to open the museum to the public?
We use the term “open to the public” lightly, it’s not officially a museum, but it will be soon! I am joining forces with the International Museum of Dinnerware Design (IMoDD) run out of Michigan. This museum has a collection of more than 9,000 dinnerware-related items. They host curated exhibitions and educational programs, but they do not have a physical location as yet. This is perfect timing for Fishs Eddy and IMoDD to join forces. The idea was hatched when the director came to look at the Fishs Eddy collection, and of course, the conversation was non-stop excitement. We are going to try to make this dream a reality with a permanent space in upstate New York somewhere near the other museums, such as Storm King and Dia Beacon. We want to be part of the pilgrimage people make to look at art.
What is the earliest and/or rarest piece in the collection?
That’s a hard question; I probably don’t know the answer. Endless stacks are waiting for me to go down the rabbit hole and find their origin. I know my favorite pieces; I love these little cups designed by Alexander Girard for the restaurant La Fonda Del Sol. And I especially love these plates from the first restaurant at Newark Airport called the Newarker. But I know there are much rarer pieces to get excited about. Let’s just say I have a lot of homework to do.
Do you keep a personal collection?
My dishes at home are all mixed, but I have a lot of small side dishes everywhere for anything from cotton swabs in the bathroom to lose change. Whether at work or home, I am always surrounded by beautiful pieces.
Might we expect a line of “Fishs Eddy Museum” ware?
Well, considering that we’ve mastered the art of a gift shop, the answer would be yes! And, of course, inspired by the collection.
[Editor’s note: Fishs Eddy is at 889 Broadway. To schedule a museum tour, call 212-420-9020.]
—Z.G. Burnett
