© Christie’s Inc., 2024.

Antiques and The Arts Weekly was alerted that Christie’s would be handling the iconic couture collection of Iris Apfel in mid February. We arranged to speak with Nathalie Ferneau, a junior specialist and head of sale in the firm’s Private and Iconic Collections department, which is overseeing the auction. Ferneau was willing to share some insights into why Apfel’s collection matters and what will soon be coming under Christie’s gavel.

Congratulations on landing Iris Apfel’s estate collection! How significant was she to the fashion/couture scene, both in NYC and worldwide?

Iris Apfel occupies a truly unique space within the fashion world. She was a fiercely original figure, even within a community driven by creatives. Iris Apfel changed the way the world thought about fashion, via her bright, heavily accessorized outfits and bold makeup, but also just by existing in the space as an older woman. Often referred to as the “geriatric starlet,” Iris was a consummate rule breaker. Her maximalist outfits mixed and matched in every way possible, mashing colors, fabric, countries and price points together in the same ensemble. Flea market finds were layered with couture, as embraced by the world in the 2005 exhibition “Rara Avis: Selections from the Iris Apfel Collection” at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Iris would also use her extensive textile expertise to turn vintage fabric into clothing or take vintage designer looks and rework them into something entirely new. Later in life, Iris collaborated with several brands such as H&M and Zenni Optical, as well as creating her own Home Shopping Network line Rara Avis (Rare Bird), to bring her style to the masses in an accessible way.

Can you talk a bit about the overall sale and what readers (and potential buyers) might find for sale?

Christie’s is delighted to present Unapologetically Iris: The Collection of Iris Apfel, an online auction celebrating one of America’s most iconic style-makers. The online sale, which showcases Mrs Apfel’s legendary flair for fashion, accessories and interior design, will be open for bidding January 28 through February 13.

Unapologetically Iris features over 200 pieces of fashion, accessories and design from the collection of Mrs Apfel, showcasing the brilliant and bold personal style of a New York City icon. Bidders can expect haute couture, vintage textiles, decorative arts including painted European furniture, whimsical animal paintings, costume jewelry and, of course, eyeglasses. It is a rich and colorful collection, with lots from across the globe.

Select highlights from the collection are on view in the Miami Design District January 24-25 and in Palm Beach, Fla., at The Colony Hotel from January 29-31. Further collection highlights will be on view at Christie’s New York from February 8-13.

What are some of the most important pieces in the auction? Why are they important?

The red satin Chado ensemble is both endlessly chic and represents an important moment in Iris’s life. Ralph Rucci designed this look for the opening reception of “Rara Avis: Selections from the Iris Apfel Collection” at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. This exhibition marked a turning point for Iris’s legacy, launching her from an ‘if you know you know’ design world insider to a household name. And who better than to design her debut look that her longtime friend and collaborator Ralph Rucci.

Staying on the theme of ‘Rare Bird,’ Christie’s is offering a tremendous Dior Haute Couture feather coat. When asked to describe her exuberant style, “More is more, and less is bore!” was a common refrain. This richly colored jacket is one of many couture pieces of the collection that is sophisticated yet retains Iris’s signature joie de vivre.

Another top lot of the sale is the ostrich bar, lovingly named ‘Gussy’ by Iris. Iris had six of these bars created in Italy in the 1970s. Four went to her interior design clients, but she kept two, named Gussy and Gustavo, for herself. Gustavo was retained by the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, Mass., following his inclusion in the “Rara Avis” traveling expedition, while until recently Gussy remained in Iris’s Palm Beach apartment. Gussy is being sold with her friend Kermit, as Iris always kept them paired together. I am excited to see where Gussy and Kermit go next!

A multicolor feather coat, labeled Dior Haute Couture, Paris, late Twentieth / Twenty-First Century ($800-$1,200). © Christie’s Inc., 2024.

Is this the extent of Apfel’s collection that Christie’s will sell? Are there fine and decorative arts or jewelry that will be presented in future sales by other departments?

Christie’s is excited to be presenting a portion of the collection in this multi-category sale. No future sales are planned, at present.

As far as I’m aware, Christie’s doesn’t have a dedicated fashion or couture department. Is that the case? Are there specialists at Christie’s you engaged with on this project? Independent consultants?

Christie’s prides itself as being the go-to auction house for great single owner collections. Our Private and Iconic department is exclusively dedicated to looking after and meeting the needs of multi-category collections. An important part of that process is partnering with relevant experts in their field to bring the highest quality of expertise to the objects in our care.

On this collection, we had the pleasure of partnering with independent consultant Laura Layfer, who is based in Chicago.

Does Christie’s have other couture or fashion collections they’re planning to sell in the near future?

Christie’s is always working on the next exciting project but nothing that we can reveal at this time.

—Madelia Hickman Ring